"Oh what a beautiful MOOOORning, Oh what a beautiful day. I've got a wonderful feelING, EVERYthing's GOing my way."
Since Joanne is off on her internships, Mel, Jon and I have had one-on-one language classes. In class this morning, Sunitaji threw around the word "fluent" a couple times which just about sent my spirits through the roof. It felt GREAT to just talk in a completely different language... write sentences off the cuff in a completely different language. A notable part of our discussion: after talking about Jon going off to Chitwan (in the hot, lower area of the Tarai) to research an indigenous Chepang community, Sunitaji said "dherai pichhaDhiedko jaati" which means "a very backwards group of people." I've heard this word "backwards" thrown around a lot, always meaning "undeveloped." People with "bikas" (development) are, according to Sunitaji (and many other Nepalis I've talked with), the higher castes and people who live in the city. And so the backwards people must develop, through government aid, to become unbackward and have access to "facilities." (America is always a land where you can find "dherai facility"). This entire philosophy seemed to me incredibly misinformed - after all, aren't the "unbackwards" people of Kathmandu already wading through their own garbage and sewage, weaving through deadly traffic, and generally suffering under the government's inability to provide for the ever-increasing urban population? Is this bikas? Is this not backward?
Back to the beautiful morning... I met with my advisor who frankly is an omnipotent god of generosity and resources. He comes skipping down the hall in his Santa Claus pot belly and Nepali topi (hat) and, in a mere 30 minutes of huddling round a map and several textbooks, allays every fear and anxiety I had about my upcoming month of independent research. He's like the Indiana Jones of Nepal, bumbling and adorable where Harrison Ford of course was the epitome of suave and debonair. I finally got to speak with a great friend last night, and Kirtipur looks more beautiful every day since I know I will be leaving soon. Finding out that after a second try, I am finally a Udall Scholar (a scholarship I've been agonizing over) is simply a cherry on top of an already delicious sundae, a small push forward to say everything you've done is just thik chha (good.)
So what is my research about exactly? Good frikkin question... Here's what I have so far:
I will be living/trekking for a month in Manang District in northern Nepal at elevations of 3 - 5000 meters. There I will look at water issues and climate change, probably comparing water scarcity in two villages: one that relies on glaciers in the south and another that relies on glaciers in the north (glaciers in the south are much larger and less likely to disappear, but they are less reliable.) I have one research assistant/translator who will help me conduct interviews with women, religious figures, farmers, community leaders and trans-Himalayan herders. It takes about 4 or 5 days to reach Manang since I have to trek most of the way - poor me, slowly lumbering through mountain valleys in the shadow of Himalayan glaciers, finally clearing my nose (the pollution has turned my bogies black) with alpine breezes. It should be nothing short of gorgeous, an excuse to trek again under an academic banner. Then I come back, stay in Kirtipur for 10 days, and fly home!
I likely won't have internet access during my month in Manang. If you're skypeable, maybe we can chat before then! (hperls123.) Emails of course are also welcome, provided you include a joke or two (if you can find a way to attach a slice of pizza, that would fantastic.)
