Holy Holi

Holi is the best, nastiest, craziest, most colorful holiday ever. As Mel said, "This would never fly in the US." Starting this morning, Kavita and I woke up early so we could run to the program house (a distance of about 50 m maximum) before the neighbors stocked up on water balloons. Think war zone with turrets everywhere and enemy fire, except the enemy fire is water-filled bags dyed with colored powder. A nationwide paintball fight with no rules, beautiful weather and LOTS of college students with pent up stress and aggression. After our daily rice and lentils, all the kids headed to the boys' hostel courtyard and very quickly things went nuts. Green dye thrown down shirts, buckets of water upturned over unsuspecting heads, and not-so-careful kitchen staffers thinking they could just sneak by without get noticed. Oh how foolish they were. Tildai got soaked; Parnudidi got mauled with red dye and we all became absolutely and entirely filthy. A few stray bags (rockets really) hit me in the eye but all was good (I promise I'm totally fine!) and generally I would now take Holi over Christmas any day.

Some quick updates on the past few days. Yesterday I went to a lunch at a restaurant called Mike's Breakfast (started by an ex-Peace Corper) with Laurie, the director of the Fullbright Office here in Nepal, Laurie's sarcastic Indian husband, the husband's best friend interested in water issues in India (hence the reason I was invited) and some other random dudes. 1. Best food EVER. I do not exaggerate. 2. These guys are absolute ballers. It was a fantastic conversation, despite the fact that I was at least half as young as the youngest person at that table. Even better, I held a lengthy conversation IN NEPALI with the taxi driver on the way over. No need for applause though it is appreciated. Though we didn't speak much about water issues, I had a fantastic time and it was incredibly encouraging to know I could travel around this city on my own, as well as hold a very normal, casual conversation with a woman whose credentials would normally have me shaking in my boots (if I wore boots that is.)

The night before that, Mel and Jon and I grabbed a quick dinner in Thamel (tourist district) complete with a sweet cover band, beer and just general good, American, college student fun. I never thought I would miss seeing night lights as much as I do. But simply walking through the streets with stalls lit up and music blaring was so refreshing and a taste of home without the stress of midterm season. It was a fantastic, casual blast of bonding - an event which we hope to repeat tonight as we count down to Mel's 22nd birthday. Tonight we plan to return to Mike's Breakfast, my new favorite place of worship, for Mexican Food, some Amurrican beer (drinking age here is about 5) and a reggae concert. Our research proposals are due tomorrow and then Tuesday morning we leave for our homestay in Mannegau. It is a Tamang village populated mostly by Tibetan-Buddhists, beautiful mountains and absolutely no internet whatsoever. Therefore you will simply have to hold your breath until I get back. : )